The next two passes on our list were officially also the world’s highest and third highest motorable roads — Khardung La and Chang La. To get to the latter, however, you require an Inner Line Permit (ILP) obtainable from the office of the Deputy Commissioner in Leh from 10.00 am onwards. Formalities completed, the road to Chang La which, at 17,586 feet, is the world’s third highest motorable road, passes through some of the most desolate yet breathtakingly beautiful terrain. The Indian Army operates a quaint little café-cum-souvenir store here and serves complimentary tea to visitors. Chang La is also the gateway to the famous Pangong Tso lake.
The road from Leh to Khardung La, officially the highest motorable road in the world at 18,380 feet, is, however, easier to manage. Here too, you need a permit, which you can get from a booth en route. Roads are not too bad, though the pass itself tends to be fairly crowded due to its popularity as a photo-op. The 80-km round trip to Khardung La can be easily accomplished in a day and you can be back in Leh by sunset.
We allowed ourselves the luxury of a late start from Leh, as the planned drive for the day was not too long. Breakfast was at the Gesmo Restaurant, and you must visit this for the unique-to-these-parts yak cheese pizza as well as other sumptuous breakfast comestibles, and to pick some cookies and cakes from their extensive spread. The local shops offer an array of handicrafts, pashmina shawls, and other trinkets — be sure to take some home.
Heading out from Leh, the altitudes are a lot more bearable for those who do not fancy extreme heights. Our first port of call was Fotu La, where the rock formations are particularly striking, as is the absence of snow and biting cold winds. Approach roads are excellently paved, and the twisties are great fun but caution is advisable.
The next pass – Namik La – is a quiet one, and, in fact, is not even found on Google Maps, which instead directs you to a Delhi-based travel agency! A special feature is what might be India’s highest television relay centre, a Prasar Bharati (Doordarshan) relay tower at the site. Our rest point for the night was Kargil, and the roads close to the town were so bad that we joked that our neighbours need just to scare the road workers away if they wish to defeat India!
The new day started with a salutation to the brave souls of the Indian Army as we visited the Kargil War Memorial. This is a must-see — in particular, the display hall — for pictures and other memorabilia from past wars, and to appreciate the sacrifices made by these incredible human beings so that we can sleep peacefully at night.
Zoji La, the last pass on our route, is a little over 40 km beyond the Memorial. This pass played a critical role in the 1999 Kargil War and is one of the lowest passes. The roads, however, are horrid, so be prepared for your car and yourself to take some punishment. We halted for the night at Srinagar at a hotel overlooking the beautiful Dal Lake, and the lit-up houseboats were a sight to be seen in the shimmering lake waters. Bliss!
Thus concluded our tale of traversing 10 mountain passes. We had a whale of a time — yes, we encountered bad roads, biting cold, sparse accommodation, and other troubles, but also enjoyed some stunning scenery, excellent tarmac, beautiful places to stay, and memories for a lifetime. Life is an adventure, and this is one of the best ways to live it on four wheels!
