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The next day was a rest day, much welcome after the tough roads on the previous leg. After a leisurely breakfast, we drove down to the Suru river, a tributary of the Indus, and our SUV proudly posed (as did we) for some photographs. As with any riverside, the sand was soft and demanded caution the best of SUVs could easily get stuck here if parked at the wrong spot and nothing less than a JCB or the Hulk would be able to rescue them.

Next we drove to a village called Hundurman, located near the Line of Control. From here you can see a part of Pakistan, specifically village Brolmo in Pakistan. If you go a few kilometres further up, you can also see the villages Bilargu and Gangani in Pakistan; this second observation spot, though, is off-limits for tourists and you need special permission for this. The evening was spent at the delightful Roots Ladakh café in the Kargil market, where we lazed among the tasteful decorations and upholstery and gorged on local baked goodies and sipped hot kahwa.

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